PHONSAVAN
BEAUTIFUL DESTINATIONS YOU MUST VISIT IN PHONSAVAN
Phonsavan is the pretty capital city of the Xieng Khouang Province in the center of Laos and is often looked on as a way to get to the Plain of Jars which is a natural stone structure that is said to look like jars.
The Plain of Jars is indeed one of the top sights in Laos, but if you are travelling to Phonsavan, which translates to ‘Hills of Paradise’ in Lao, then make sure to spend a few days here taking in the sights as well. There is some amazing scenery to be had here, and you can go trekking on the outskirts of the city as well as visit waterfalls, caves and natural pools.
Within the town itself, you can see how the locals live and work, and even find some Laotian cowboys who look after cattle in the fields around the city.
1.THE PLAIN OF JARS
The Plain of Jars
The main reason to come to Phonsavan is to visit the Plain of Jars, and you can do this as part of a day trip at a push.
The Plain of Jars is actually the name for a megalithic landscape in this part of Central Laos and you will find thousands of stone jars which are located all over the valleys and hills here.
Amazingly, no one is quite sure how they go here, and the area was also heavily bombed over the years, but this remains one of the most picturesque spots in Laos as well as a great archeological mystery.
2.THAM XANG CAVES
The Tham Xang Caves are around 36 kilometers outside of Phonsavan but it is well worth making the effort to come and visit them.
The caves are located in a limestone cliff side and they would have once been the refugee of fighters in the days of old, during the time of the Secret War.
To that end, there would have been a complete cave complex here including a hospital and a medicine depot.
Nowadays you can take a guided tour of the caves and learn all about how people would have camped out here in the past.
3.THE HOT SPRINGS
The Hot Springs are located at Baw Nyai which is some 67 kilometers outside of Phonsavan and this is a great place to come if you want to relax and soak in a hot tub while looking at the jungle.
There is a scenic trek that takes you out to the source of the springs, and you can also stay overnight here in a bungalow and have direct access to the bathing pools for which this part of Laos is famous.
4.THE TAK KA WATERFALL
The Tad Ka Waterfall is located in Tajok which is around 32 kilometers away from the center of Phonsavan.
The reason to come here is that this is a stepped waterfall and the water gushes over several levels before crashing into the pools below.
To get to the waterfall you need to walk through the dense jungle and many companies in Phonsavan offers tours here which usually include a delicious picnic lunch next to the dramatic cataracts.
5.THE OLD CEMETERY
The Old Cemetery is famous in Phonsavan as it is made up of a range of different religious relics.
These include Tai Dam animist tombs as well as traditional Catholic tombstones, which make for an interesting walk round in the afternoon.
You will also find some Chinese graves here as well as Lao Buddhist religious buildings and the entire area is built on a hillside which looks over the town.
6.THE NAVANG CRAFT CENTER
The Navang Craft Center is known in Phonsavan for its amazing wood carvings.
This is a family owned establishment and they make all their pieces from Fujian Cypress wood which is extremely rare.
This is also known to have a fragrant scent, and the pieces here are exquisite as they are all carved by hand.
The workers make all their carvings onsite so you can watch them as they work and they also have beautiful souvenirs on display.
7.THE WAR MEMORIALS
Phonsavan is known for its war memorials and these were erected to honor the struggle of the thousand of Pathet Lao soldiers during the Indochina Wars.
As you walk all over town you will find these memorials dotted around, and this is a moving tribute not only to the Lao troops but also the Vietnamese who died during this period as well.
Many of the memorials were deliberately built on hillsides so that you can also take in the views over the town as well.
8.THE UXO INFORMATION CENTER (MAG)
There are two UXO Information Centers in Phonsavan which are located almost next to each other.
This one is run by the British Mines Advisory Group (MAG) and tells the story of how unexploded bombs and mines remain littered around parts of Laos.
As you walk around you can see galleries that will show you how the bomb drops affected the area and you can also see some safely defused UXO pieces.
The center works on donations and they are still actively clearing unexploded ordinance in the region so this is well worth a visit if you want to do something that also benefits the local community.
ALL THINGS YOU SHOULD KNOW BEFORE TRAVELLING TO PHONSAVAN
THE BEST THINGS TO SEE & DO
- Travel on to the Plain of Jars
- Visit Mulberries Farm
- Travel to the Tham Xang Caves
- Fish in Nong Tang Lake
- Hike to the Tad Ka Waterfall
- Walk around the War Memorials
- Soak in the Hot Springs
- Eat some Indian food
- Shop at the Fresh Food Market
Indochinese war sites such as the Plain of Jars became the Plain of Scars during the Indochinese war since it was directly in the way of the conflict. This site experienced extensive bombing and was also used as the drop-off point for unused artillery after the war. Xieng Khouang and Houaphan became the most heavily bombed places in the world on per capita basis.
There are several scenic war memorials for soldiers who died in the war of Indochina. Tham Piu Cave is open to the public, where you can see remains of Laos’ war days. Around 374 people died after a rocket hit the cave during the ‘Secret War’ in November 1969. Sadly, their bones still remain inside the cave.
Tham Xang (Elephant Cave) also have remains of the arsenal, medicines, and traces of refugees who lived there during the war. Despite its macabre history, the cave is also worth a visit due to its impressive rock formations. There’s a massive stalagmite resembling an elephant, together with a Buddhist shrine. During Lao New Year, devotees sprinkle water on the elephant’s head and pray for good health.
The Mulberry Silk Farm is a fair trade company in Phonsavan that offers daily guided tours. You get to learn about the process of breeding silkworms and procuring the silk fibre. Farm workers use bark, leaves, berries, flowers, vines and seeds to make the colours used to dye the fabric. It also has an onsite shop selling souvenirs made with silk at reasonable prices.
HOW TO GET PHONSAVAN
Most travellers get to Phonsavan by air – Xiang Khouang Airport receives flights from Vientiane about 4 times per week. During the holiday season, Lao Airlines offers flights between the town and Hanoi or Vinh in Vietnam.
VIP and local buses travel to Phonsavan from Vinh – the journey takes about 12 hours to reach the Laotian town. There’s also a VIP bus from Paksan Bus Terminal to Phonsavan which takes around 8 hours.
SHOPPING IN PHONSAVAN
In Phonsavan, shopping for textiles and handicrafts is a must-do. Many souvenir items are made from indigenous wood. Laos silk is produced by mulberry silkworms and dyed using natural colours. Matsutake Whiskey is a locally brewed alcohol using hed wai, a wild mushroom from the Xieng Khouang pine forests.
The Phonsavan Chinese market, located west of the town’s main strip, is where you can pick up souvenirs, gold and silverware. It’s a good idea to bargain for a fair price.
PHONSAVAN WEATHER & BEST TIME TO VISIT
The best time to visit the Phonsavan is between October to February, when the weather is not hot, and the humidity is manageable. It is excellent weather to be outdoors and explore the archaeological sites. From late February, summer sets in slowly with March to May being the hottest months. Monsoon begins in late July and lasts until September.
Monthly Weather
PHONSAVAN – BEST PLACES TO EAT AND DISHES TO TRY
Although Phonsavan is a provincial town, the diversity of food to choose from is impressive. There are no less than 32 restaurants and numerous Pho soup shops. You can enjoy delicious Vietnamese, Lao and Chinese dishes, and not only. So, here’s what you should know about the food scene in Phonsavan.
Where can you find affordable street food?
The fresh food market in Phonsavan encompasses a plethora of exotic fruits you don’t get to see elsewhere in Laos. We’re referring to the Chinese pear, which has a surprisingly wonderful flavor.
The nok ąen dąwng is another local delicacy – whole swallows fermented in jars. Make sure you have your camera with you: the abundance of colors and flavors is a treat to the eye.
Best areas for local food: dishes you should try
Given its small size, most of the restaurants in Phonsavan are situated on the main road. That means you won’t have much trouble with finding something that would appeal to your taste.
Simmaly Restaurant is a popular spot for locals, as it serves huge portions of food. The prices are surprisingly low, and the food is to-die-for. The portion of fried rice came accompanied by some chicken and veggies. This is a vegetarian-friendly restaurant – which is good to know. The prices vary from LAK15,000 to LAK30,000 (USD2 to USD4), which is pretty great considering the tasty dishes. Another bonus is that the staff is friendly and polite. Also, the pork fried rice and the fried spring rolls are delicious.
Sangha Restaurant serves great dishes at fair prices. In fact, this is one of the most affordable places in Phonsavan. The good thing is that the menu is available in English as well, which makes it easier to order. Plus, the staff speaks English, which is pretty encouraging. The Lao salad we had was delicious, just as the sour and hot soups.
International food
Lao-Falang is also a top spot for eating. It presents a diverse menu comprising of Lao and Western dishes. It is an impeccable place that makes you feel welcome. Their pizza is one of the highlights, although it is quite pricey compared to the other dishes, yet still accessible – LAK70,000 (USD9). The delicious pasta (Bolognese and Carbonara) is a treat, just as their homemade ice cream. We were also quite surprised by their diversity of wine choices. The place is open from 7 am to 4 pm, and 5 pm to 10:30 pm. Although other restaurants provide decent international dishes, as well, Lao-Falang offers first-class Italian dishes and large portions: you won’t leave the place with an empty stomach!
If you feel like having some Indian food, then Nisha is at the top of our list of recommendations. The menu incorporates the typical dishes such as tikka masala, curries, rogan josh, and other vegetarian choices. The freshness of the food is a major draw, just as the use of delicious spices. The portions are also massive. Expect to pay around LAK20,000 (USD2.50) per dish – a bargain if you ask us!
Cafes and coffee shops
When on holiday, having coffee is a necessity. Cranky-T Café and Bar (address: 049 Ban Phonesavanh Xay, Phonsavan 0900) is an excellent place to get your daily dose of caffeine and sweets. If you feel like having some ice cream, they have a wide selection as well. Still, the thing that won us over is their coffee – which is one of the best in town.
